Day 203: Wing Dam Roulette

A Ray of Hope

We're off at first light.  Today's strategy is to throw caution to the wind and money at the problem--which is so unlike us.  Anyway, the throttle is set at 2200 rpm; which promptly decrements our savings account by $8.75/hr (for diesel).  Ouch! Compare that to our normal 1600 rpm cruise and $2.50/hr.  Still, it's worth it.  Between the falling river level and the increased rpm our average speed jumps to 4.9 mph--40% faster than yesterday.  We're flying I tell ya! 

Ask a river greybeard about wing dams and you'll likely receive a long stare and a knowing nod.  "They sure can ruin your day." is the usual, not so helpful answer.  Wing dams are rock jetties that extend from the bank well into the river.  Their purpose is to keep the channel from silting up.  From a mariner's perspective, the fun comes when the river rises and the wing dam lurks just below the surface.  Here's a picture of Mini-Ne in midst of many wing dams. 

Wing dams to the Left and Right

Here's what the water looks like at the chart location above.  See any wing dams?  Me either.

Submerged Wing dams to the Left and Right

Now here's where it gets fun.  Staying in the channel guarantees slow going.  Conversely, you're rewarded with greater boat speed the farther out of the channel you venture. 

We prefer going faster and are willing to take small chances to do so.  Our risk mitigation strategy is to stay in water which is at least 20' or deeper.  What could go wrong...

Well, as it turns out, a lot.  Approaching one wing dam the depth sounder goes from 20' to 8' in a flash; Nellie's depth alarm sounds;  and my life flashes before my eyes.  Fortunately we cleared the wing dam with 4-1/2' to spare.  But, this exposed an obvious flaw in my strategy: wing dam heights aren't published.  Bottom line, I need to do more research before attempting more wing dam roulette.

A Mississippi Sunset

Today's cruising strategy (except for the bit with the wing dam) really paid off.  We made 69 miles in 14 hours underway.  This got us to the Kaskaskia River, MM118, where Nellie's safely tried to a lock wall.  It'll be good sleeping tonight!  Total mileage is now 3,494.  DBH

Day 202: Stand Down

Wood Branches Collect on the Anchor Chain

It was a great night on the hook.  Some logs bounced off us and we collected a few in the anchor rode.  Nonetheless, Nellie held her ground and we slept soundly.  For reasons that will become clear shortly, we're going to spend another day here. 

We hadn't seen any houses since starting up the Mississippi so it was nice when some appeared along the banks yesterday.  A few looked alarmingly close to the water.  So close in fact I remember thinking, "How can they possibly survive a flood?"  The answer is, they couldn't.  And yet, they had.  Talk about cognitive dissonance.  Paraphrasing some long dead Greek: When beliefs aren't corroborated by observation, it's time to reexamination those beliefs. 

St Louis' Mississippi Floods by Season

I thought the Mississippi usually didn't flood in the summer.  And, since this is summer, the Mississippi shouldn't be flooding.  Oops, the chart above shows that one-third of St Louis' floods came between June and August.  The light bulb finally comes on: the houses look close to the water and our progress north is painfully slow precisely because the river is flooding--or nearly!  

The Current Gage at Cape Girardeau, Missouri

We'd predicated our route and boat speed on Hjortie.  She's Nellie's sister ship and cruised the Upper Mississippi back in 2012.  But, what Hjortie covered in one day is taking Nellie two days.   The graph above explains why.  The river level was 20' lower in 2012. 

The waters have started to receed.  By hanging out here for another day we hope to be rewarded with better boat speed tomorrow.  Is 4 mph too much to hope for ;-) ?

They're Coming...

Sharing the anchorage tonight are the season's first two southbound Loopers.  The fleet can't be far behind them. That means until we're north of the Illinois River, we're going to be competing for fuel and services.  That's OK though, it has been lonely on the Mississippi.

We're still at Anchor in the Castor River Diversion Canal, Cape Girardeau, Missouri, near Mississippi MM 49.  Zero miles today and holding at 3,425 miles for the trip.  DBH

Day 201: Well, That was Fun

Last Night's Anchorage at MM12

Last night's anchorage was great, at least until 12:30am.  That's when the rising river and the wake from a tug colluded to dislodge Nellie's anchor.  Being roused from a sound sleep by the anchor alarm isn't pleasant.  It's then a mad scramble to collect your wits, confirm the anchor is dragging, start the engine, and get the situation stabilized.  We did, we lived and Nellie's fine.

Bicki's 'Good Sport' Face

We normally cruise at 1600 rpm, about 7 mph.  If we're in a hurry, cruise speed is 1800 rpm, about 8 mph.  All day today we cruised at 2000 rpm, about 9 mph. 

Why all this talk of boat speed?  Because at one point Nellie was turning 2000 rpm but going 1 mph--meaning the current was 8 mph against her!  That's a big current.

Where's all the current coming from?  Rain.  There have been seven inches of rain in the last three days and it has swollen the river and raised the water level by eight feet.  Note to self: avoid cruising on any parts of the Mississippi near flood stage.

Bicki's "This is a Great Anchorage!" Face

After last night's anchoring drama, tonight's goal is for someplace more sedate.  We think we found it.  The jury's out, but there's reason to hope.

Today's 39 Tough Fought Miles

Anchored in the serene and tranquil Castor River Diversion Canal, Cape Girardeau, Missouri, near Mississippi MM 49.  It took 11-1/2 hours to go 39 miles, making our average speed 3.4 mph.  Total for the trip thus far is 3,425 miles.  DBH

Day 200: Mississippi River Ho!

Lock 52 is Old and Big

Yesterday, six hours after arriving at Lock 52, we finally got the green light. It was 7pm.  I now understand why Lock 52, completed in 1928, is being replaced: it takes 10 times longer to get through as compared to newer locks.

 
Down the Placid Ohio, Then the Wind Started Blowing

This morning, around 10:30am, the SW wind started blowing a solid 20 with gusts to 30 mph.  We beat into two to three foot, narrowly spaced, foam topped waves.  I got seasick, it was just like being on the Chesapeake!

Olmstead Lock--This is what $2.9B Looks Like

The Olmstead Lock and Dam is a busy worksite.  We had to wait 45 minutes before being cleared through. 

Fort Defiance in Illinois Separates the Mississippi (l) from the Ohio (r)

At 1pm we made a right turn onto the Mighty Mississippi.  Goodbye Ohio River.  Our speed instantly dropped to 3 mph--a walking pace.  Eight mph is Nellie's normal speed.  At this rate it's going to be a long 185 mile slog to reach the Mississippi's first lock (#27) and the more placid waters above it.  

Whoa, a 5 mph Current on a Nun in the Mississippi

I'm surprised how rustic the Mississippi is in these parts.  It feels a lot like the bayous north of Mobile as the shorelines are completely devoid of development.

Little Nellie Tracks Our Position on the Paper Chart.

At Ables Point, Missouri, MM 12, we found a place to anchor for the night which is well out of the fast current.  That's a true luxury in these parts!  Today's average speed on the Mississippi was 3.6 mph.  We went 54 miles and now have 3,386 miles under the keel.  DBH

Day 199: Wickets and Waits

Barkley Lock's Wall of Shame

Happy birthday Bicki! 

We're off with the sun but come to a screeching halt, still within sight of our slip,  because of Barkley Lock's closed doors.  All we hear from the lock master is, "It'll be a few minutes".   In lock speak that can mean hours.  It's back to the wall of shame for us. 

Fortunately, the wait was only 30 minutes.

With a 3 mph current pushing us along it was a fast trip down the Cumberland. We knew when we reached the Ohio as it was much wider and slower moving.  What we didn't know was how long the delay would be at today's second lock.

Lots of Sand and Gravel Companies Along the Cumberland

"The time has come," the Walrus said,
"To talk of many things:
Of shoes--and ships--and sealing-wax--
Of cabbages--and kings--
And why the sea is boiling hot--
And whether pigs have wings."

-- from Lewis Carroll's "The Walrus and the Carpenter"

Carroll missed his chance to discuss wickets but I shall not.  The conversation need not be hurried for we've got hours.  Four hours thus far with Nellie's anchor down and uncounted more to go.  

An Old Friend, the Delta Mariner (Sans I-Beam Bonnet), has Priority and Locks Through 52 Before Us

The last two locks on the Ohio, numbers 52 and 53, are accompanied by wicket dams.  Unlike a conventional dam, a wicket dam can be raised and lowered.  This short video is worth 1000 words of explanation.

Setting the Wickets (credit: East Liverpool, OH Historical Society)

Unfortunately the wickets went up last week and so here we sit waiting our turn to get through the lock.  The good news is that 53's wickets are down and tomorrow we can cruise over them, avoiding that lock altogether.

This wicket discussion isn't complete without mentioning the $2.9B Olmsted Lock and Dam which is replacing 51 and 52.  Olmsted is 10 years behind schedule and $2.2B over budget.  Ouch.  On the other hand, it's completion promises to reduce wait times dramatically.

Today's Cumberland Run (At Least Until Lock 52)

It's 6 PM and we're still waiting for 52.  With luck we'll be on the hook tonight at Ohio MM 949, Little Chain Bar (close to Metropolis, IL).  That'll make this about a 50 mile day and ups the total to 3,334 miles for the trip. DBH

Day 198: All Systems are Go for Launch

A 3 Mile Shake Down Cruise

This next leg of the cruise consisting of 30 miles on the Cumberland, 60 miles on the Ohio, and 158 miles on the Mississippi, may be as challenging as anything we've faced this far.  There are no marinas and the current south of St. Louis is 4+ mph.

Once we get north of St. Louis and the Missouri River, the locks begin.  The locks slow the river's current tremendously.

Nellie passed today's stress test.  The turbo's gasket didn't leak and even during a prolonged run at 2400 rpm (normal cruise is 1800rpm) nothing broke or overheated. 

As advised I called Vern today.  She's owns Hoppie's marina south of St. Louis and is a legend on the Mississippi.  Rumor has it she sold fuel for General Grant's streamers back in 1862.  I could be off a bit on the details but you get the idea.  Vern was very motherly telling me to stay on the sailing line; watch out for wing dams; and to be careful of the whirlpools.  As promised, however, she certainly knew what the river was doing off her dock: 4 to 5 mph but slowing.  The gage heights at Lock 27, which is right above Vern's place, are currently 54.36' above the dam and 43.76' below the dam.  Hopefully these heights will continue to fall, and the river speed will slow, before we arrive at Vern's on Thursday.

Weather permitting we're off with the sun tomorrow. 

Still at Green Turtle Bay, Grand Rivers, Kentucky.  Three miles today and 3,284 miles under the keel.  DBH

Day 197: The Unhappy Mechanic

The Problem Child Gasket

The turbocharger's gasket has a small coolant leak--again.  Over breakfast we discuss what to do about it.  However, with a thousand miles of uphill river infront of us, the answer is pretty clear: repair it now.

Read the Small Print: Turbo Side

It's always nice to find a smoking gun to make yourself confident in the diagnosis and repair.  Turns out there were two smoking guns.   First, the gasket was on backwards.  I now know it's important to read the small print in contracts and on gaskets.

Corroded Turbocharger Surface

Second, there's noticeable pit corrosion on the turbocharger's mating surface.  Fortunately the fixes are straight forward: reverse the gasket and put RTV sealant on it.

Tomorrow we'll take Nellie out for a sea trial to confirm the repair was successful.

There's good news on the weather front, the heat wave is abating.  Another good news item, the last part of the puzzle, i.e. determining how fast the Mississippi is flowing, has fallen into place.  A boat neighbor today said he's taken many trawlers north on the Mississippi.  His go to source for river speed is Vern (she owns Hoppie's Marina in south St. Louis).  Vern it is.  I'm calling her tomorrow.

Under cover at Green Turtle Bay Resort, Grand Rivers, Kentucky.  Holding at 3,281 miles.  DBH