Day #16: A Blow in Clayton, NY

Clayton, NY, 18 Miles Down the St. Lawrence from Lake Ontario

It blew and blew. And then it blew some more. Nellie frolicked on her docklines all night. The crew slept fitfully. This morning saw no letup in the 20 mph NW winds.  The predictions were for more of the same until nightfall. With any thoughts of getting underway relegated to fantasy, we attended to shoreside duties.

Murals on the Koffee Kove

The stories of unfortunate sailors who foolishly challenge Mother Nature abound in these parts. Just last night I heard about a tug captain that knowingly ventured into a rapidly closing weather window. The waves on Lake Ontario got so big that his two crew aboard the barge feared for their lives.  They signaled the tug to get them off. During the approach the tug fouled its prop on a towline and went dead in the water. The barge subsequently sank and both souls aboard were lost.

Right, don't go across Lake Ontario in a  closing weather window. But, when do you go? Best advice I've heard is, in settled weather but no sooner than 48 hours after a blow. So, Saturday, at the earliest, for Nellie. DBH

Day #15: Tour, Repair and Weather in Clayton, NY

That Yellow Stain Wasn't There Yesterday

As the above picture shows, this morning's engine check turned up something new: the water pump's seal is failing.  It took about an hour to replace the pump but most of that was spent draining and refilling the cooling system.  

Dave Conroy and his steam powered boat 

A must see while in Clayton, NY is the Antique Boat Museum.  Today the guest dock was full of cute, little, steam powered boats.  We were lucky enough to arrive during their rendezvous.  And, luckier still that one of the steamboat owners, Dave Conroy, owned the LNVT Charity, 37VT35, from 1996 until 2007.  Dave invited us aboard Sayonara with the admonition, "Don't grab anything that's glowing."  Shortly we were streaming out of the harbor on our own African Queen adventure.

Bicki and Dave at the Helm

Chief Engineer Steve Runs the Powerplant

A Severe Thunderstorm Closes in on Clayton

French Creek Bay to Mary St. Marina

The afternoon weather went from bad to worse.  Rather than press on to Cape Vincent we elected to take refuge in Clayton.  Good thing too as a thunderstorm brought sustained winds over 30 mph.  Happy to be tied to a dock in Clayton, NY.  DBH

Day #14: To and Fro and then to Clayton, NY

Singer Castle, Dark Island, NY

Singer Castle, on Dark Island, was closed for tours yesterday so we back tracked a bit today for a visit.  The castle, designed by Ernest Flagg and built between 1900 anda1905, was commissioned by Frederick Bourne, President of Singer Manufacturing (think sewing machines).  Flagg, who was trained in the Beau-Arts style, also designed the Corcoran Gallery of Art, NYC's Singer Building, and the Naval Academy Chapel.  Some of Singer Castle's features, especially the hidden passageways, were inspired by Flagg's reading of Woodstock, by Sir Walter Scott.  A book so dense, according to our young tour guide, that not even the island's historian has been able to read it.  The fact that the Canada/U.S. border is just a few yards north of Dark Island would be used to the Bourne's advantage.  They bought the closest Canadian island and located their liquor cabinet there during prohibition.  Very creative.

Looking SW On the St. Lawrence's Main Channel.  The Thousand Island Bridge Visible in the Distance

A two mph current headed us on the approach to the Thousand Islands Bridge.  The area is known as Millionaire's Row because of the abundace of waterfront mansions. Most of them were built in the guilded age. To account for inflation perhaps it should be renamed Billionaire's Row.

Sunset on the Hook just East of Clayton, NY

Alexandria Bay to Dark Island to Clayton, NY

It was a relaxing 31 mile run today to Clayton, NY.  That ups Nellie's 2018 total to 227 miles.  Tonight we're on the hook in French Creek Bay on the SW side of Clayton, NY.  DBH

Day #13: Hello USA, Alexandria Bay, NY

Current Rips in the Brockville Narrows

In the 50 miles we've traveled down the St. Lawrence, the river has gone from 10 miles wide to 1. Instead of being continually surrounded by islands, the river's predominate features are now its banks.

The Trading Wheels are Off.  We're Cruising with the Big Boys

We've been river rats long enough now to know that we definitely prefer going with the current. Today we beat against it as we reversed both course and banks.   Changing over to the left bank assending means cossing the border between Canada and the U.S.   As with any border crossing, there are bureaucratic i's to dot and t's to cross.

Boldt Castle (photo credit: PressConnects)

Checking into the U.S. by boat used to mean presenting yourself for inspection at a CBP (Customs and Border Patrol) port of entry.  But now there's "an app for that" called ROAM (Reporting Offsite Arrival – Mobile).  This morning I launched the app, had a video conference with a CBP agent, and within a minute got clearance for Nellie and her crew to enter the U.S.  Hats off to the CBP for eliminating the bureaucratic hassle of reentry!

Boldt Boat House (photo credit: Omegatron)

Stained Glass Skylight in the Great Room.  To get a Sense of the Scale, Bicki's waving from the third floor (Bottom of Picture)

Formal Gardens Overlook a Smaller Castle Designed to House the Island's Powerplant

Brockville, Ontario to Alexandria Bay, NY

Nellie is back in the U.S. once again.  We traveled 21 miles today to Alexandria Bay, NY.  Tonight we're on the hook 1/4 mile Southwest of the Boldt Castle.  DBH

Day #12: Downriver to Brockville, Ontario

One Span of the Thousand Islands Suspension Bridge

Brockville, Ontario is the eastern gateway to the Thousand Islands.  So, to get the full Thousand Island experience we had to go there.  About halfway between Lake Ontario and Brockville lies the 8.5 mile long Thousand Islands Suspension Bridge.  While driving over it last month I was surprised to see many eddys and swirls in the river below.  These indicate current and I had erroneously thought this stretch of the St. Lawrence was fairly placid.  Subsequent conversations with local cruisers assured me that while it looks scary there's only a one to two knot current around the bridge.  Today we ran that gauntlet without incident but not without worry.  

On the park wall in Brockville

"You've got to go to Don's," was the line repeated over and over when folks heard we were headed to Brockville.  Don's fish and chips, take-out only, usually sports a long line of waiting customers.  Our 20 minute wait was rewarded with some of the best greasies we've ever had.  

Canada's First Railroad Tunnel Runs 1760' under Brockville to the St. Lawrence River.  It was completed in 1860 by the Brockville and Ontario (B&O) Line

Trident YC to Brockville, Ontario

It was 32 lovely miles through the heart of the Thousand Islands from Trident YC to Brockville. Tonight finds Nellie tired up securely in the Brockville Municipal Marina.  DBH

Day #11: Sailpast @TYC, Ontario

Marilyn and Larry Johnston, who recently sold Loretta May, a sistership to Nellie, invited us to attend their yacht club's Sailpast.  So, what is a Sailpast?

Sailpast tradition began at the first Yacht Club that was formed at Cowes in England nearly 200 years ago. The membership at Cowes was primarily aristocratic and many were familiar with naval practice and tradition. Cowes Yacht Club subsequently changed its name to the Royal Yacht Squadron and certain social graces were added to the traditional naval practices.

The actual "review of the fleet" is steeped in more than 600 years of Royal Navy tradition and history and was introduced in Yacht clubs as a continuation of the naval habit of having Admirals (and/or Royalty) review the fleet on special occasions.

Protocol demanded that a flagship be anchored with the Admiral and staff on the quarterdeck to receive and return the salute. Vessels sailed past, dipping their colours in salute, and with their captain also saluting with the ship's company standing at attention. The Vice Admiral would lead the fleet passing in review and the final vessel in the line would carry the Rear Admiral. --www.sailbroadreach.ca

Our Hosts Marilyn and Larry Johnston Aboard Their Tug Loretta May 37VT27

We Dip the Colors and are Saluted by Commodore Andrew McGregor and Family

Commodore McGregor (r) and Nellie (in the Background)

Loretta May Decorates Our Table Centerpiece

Trident Yacht Club, Gananoque, Ontario

Nellie stayed at the dock but Bicki and I were crew members aboard the Johnston's Nordic Tug.  TYC's Sailpast was a fun, full day event capped by a dinner celebration in the Clubhouse.  Many thanks to the Johnston's and to all the friendly folks we met at TYC.  DBH

Day #10: Trident Yacht Club, Ontario

Pretty Homes Everywhere You Look

Bicki Stands Bow Watch as Nellie Navigates the Shallows

Do you stay within the channel markers or do you venture outside them?  Staying inside the markers is safer.  But safety has a cost.  For one, it guarantees the scenery won't be as good.  Going outside the markers--off the beaten path--is more interesting but also riskier.  Treacherous shoals abound and all it takes is one bad decision to sink the boat.  Which path do you take?

Two roads diverged in a yellow wood,

And sorry I could not travel both

And be one traveler, long I stood

And looked down one as far as I could

To where it bent in the undergrowth;

Then took the other, as just as fair,

And having perhaps the better claim,

Because it was grassy and wanted wear;

Though as for that the passing there

Had worn them really about the same,

And both that morning equally lay

In leaves no step had trodden black.

Oh, I kept the first for another day!

Yet knowing how way leads on to way,

I doubted if I should ever come back.

I shall be telling this with a sigh

Somewhere ages and ages hence:

Two roads diverged in a wood, and I—

I took the one less traveled by,

And that has made all the difference.

--The Road Not Taken, Robert Frost

The Navy Islands to Trident Yacht Club, Ontario

Today's destination was the Trident Yacht Club as we've been invited to attend their opening day festivities.  Our 12 mile, circuitous path to get here was definitely outside the markers.  DBH