Day #48 & #49: Mystic Seaport, CT

Heading down a glassy Thames River.

The Lighthouse at the entrance to the Mystic River.

Nellie on Mystic Seaport's wall.  In the background is the whaling ship Charles W. Morgan.

Mystic Seaport, a preserved, early 1800s village is Disney World for cruisers.  The place is littered with classic old ships and boats.  The shoreside vintage buildings highlight trades that were vital cogs in the ship building industry.

Oddly, this homage to the past really makes me appreciate a mid 1900's invention: fiberglass.  Wood ships start to rot the second they're launched.  Nellie's fiberglass hull and topsides are as sound today as when she was launched over 32 years ago. It's a Herculean effort to maintain a wooden boat.  Fortunately, Nellie isn't nearly so demanding.

14 miles in the last two days. 1,051 miles into 2019 and 9,276 from Naples. DBH

Day #46 & Day #47: Navy Submarine Base, New London, CT

A glassy Long Island Sound

 We raise anchor and get underway early as the winds are forecasted to build throughout the day.   They do, but we survive.

A sub in dry dock.

My favorite definition of cruising is, fixing a boat in new and interesting places.  I bet you can guess where this is going. We stopped at Burr's Marina, just up the Thames in New London, Connecticut, to put 101 gallons of diesel aboard.  Immediately after departure Nellie's engine started revving.  Bicki and I shared a knowing glance--there's air in the fuel.  The diagnosis was confirmed by a quick glance at the fuel filter's sight tube; air bubbles were indeed streaming past. We throttled back and limped up the Thames to our slip at the Navy Submarine Base at New London--a new and interesting place.  Diagnosing problems at the dock beats the heck out of doing it underway.   So, where was the air coming from?  My conclusion, after exhausting all the usual suspects is, there's nothing wrong with Nellie.  Rather, it was a procedural problem.  Long story short (shorter?), the stream of  fuel from Burr's high volume pump entrained air as it struck the surface of the fuel in Nellie's tanks.  This well and completely aerated the fuel--think diesel milkshake.  [Update: no subsequent revving problems, the engine is running fine.]

I need to backup a little and tell you about the approach to the sub base; it was intimidating.  We first hailed and then were closely inspected by a heavily armed Navy gun boat.  After passing muster we were cleared into the marina.  The base offered a nice respite from both high marina costs and the hubbub of the public ports.

41 miles in the last two days. 1,037 miles into 2019 and 9,262 from Naples. DBH

Day #45: Mattituck, NY

Along the 1-1/2 mile river into Mattituck.

The string of nice weather days continues.  After breakfast ashore at Le Bonn Boulangerie--we may have left Quebec but we haven't lost our passion for French coffee and breads--we drop the mooring line and head east.  The anchorage at Mattituck, our destination, is small and reportedly fills quickly on weekends.  All true.  Nellie is the third boat in the anchorage and pretty much fills it up. 

Pat and Ken Smith pose with our donut haul.

It has been weeks and I'm suffering mightily from sugar donut withdrawal.  So, once ashore, we go looking for the fabled North Fork Donut Company.  We arrive as they're closing.  I explain my predicament while eyeing their prodigious selection.  "It's your lucky day," I'm told.  "We normally give any leftover donuts to the homeless shelter; but they're not coming so take a box full on us."  I'm in heaven.  While dinghying back to Nellie we stop at the other two boats in the anchorage and share our bounty.  The skipper of the first boat tells us he's a retired police officer.  Taking donuts to a cop, is that good karma or what?

35 miles today. 996 miles into 2019 and 9,221 from Naples. DBH

Day #44: Port Jefferson, NY

(Photo credit: Port Jefferson Historical Society)

It's an easy cruise between Northport Bay and Port Jefferson as both the seas and winds are calm. The littoral is softening before our eyes; the tree lined rocky coast is giving way to sandy beaches.

Port Jefferson was a shipbuilding town. Now it's a vacation town. Once an hour the Bridgeport Connecticut ferry disgorges sightseers.

Enjoying the breeze and the umbrella's shade on Nellie's dinghy deck.

On a Port Jefferson mooring (with free launch service).  31 miles today. 961 miles into 2019 and 9,186 from Naples. DBH

Day #43: Anchorage in Northport Bay, NY

Being new to any area means having to learn the ropes. Since the marinas here are prohibitively expensive most cruisers either anchor out or pickup a mooring ball. Balls lack the amenities normally associated with docks, like ease of access, electricity, water, showers and heads. But, mooring balls do include launch service, i.e. a water taxi to get you ashore. This somewhat dampens the pain of the $50/night ball fee as a water taxi normally costs $8 per person for a round trip.

This morning we discovered that Northport's municipal dock is free to tie to during daylight hours. So, after breakfast ashore, we moved Nellie from her ball to the dock. It was then that we were told that shore power (electricity) is also free during the day. This is a big deal as Nellie's batteries were down after the night on the mooring.

I'm beginning to think that Long Island may not be any more expensive to cruise than other areas, but it does require learning the ropes.

Eagles Nest, across the bay from Northport, was built by Cornelius Vanderbilt's great great grandson, William K. Vanderbilt II. He was a bon vivant, raconteur and had a damn good time with his family's money.

Nellie may not qualify as a floating place, but her newly replenished wine locker is no slouch.

It was a daunting 2 miles, total, from the mooring ball to the dock and then the dock to our Northport Bay anchorage. 930 miles into 2019 and 9155 from Naples. DBH

Day #42: Northport, NY

To go or not to go?  That is the question on this rainy and windy morning.  Wether it is nobler to suffer another day on a well known mooring or go out into an unknown sea state of potential troubles.  Aye, to go or not to go, that is indeed the question.

In the face of conflicting information we decide to poke out and take a look.  It's not too bad we decide and venture a little farther.  The winds build to 20 mph and whitecaps form.  Still, not too bad, so we proceed yet farther.  And this is how, on a grey, dull day that we escaped our well known bay.

The winds were steady from the north and yet, fortunately, the prevailing waves were from the northeast. Build as they might the quartering seas were comfortable. That is until after rounding Llyod Point, when we turned southeast and started the approach into Huntington Bay. Beam seas are never any fun. We ameliorated the situation by heading up a little. Pointing closer to the wind took us a little out of the way, but it's a good trade-off. Once in the lee of Eaton's Neck the waves abated so Nellie headed directly for the entrance to Northport Bay. Cruising is usually like this, making the best of what you're given.

Northport, NY doesn't take itself too seriously.

This sign was found in Seymour Boatyard's head.  A standing order on many cruising boats is that everyone sits; for it's not the the length of the rope but the motion of the boat that prevents successful docking.

Flowers on a mailbox.

It was 28 miles from Port Washington to Northport, NY.  Nellie is happily bobbing on a Seymour Boatyard mooring.  928 miles into 2019 and 9153 from Naples. DBH

Day #41: Back to Port Washington

Looking east past Lloyd Point and down the length of Long Island Sound. The cloud cover is cooling things down a little.

Aboard Nellie a line that portends trouble is "Where's the super glue?" It's shorthand for I just did something stupid, cut myself, am bleeding badly and need to stem the flow.  I had occasion to utter the phrase two days ago while repairing the generator. My hand accelerated quickly when a particularly stubborn bolt let go suddenly. The bitter end of a nearby hose clamp saw it as a good opportunity to fillet the top of my thumb. It did a rather professional job. "Where's the super glue?" I'm happy to report that the glue did its job so that I could finish my mine.

We back tracked 23 miles to Port Washington to pickup frieds Ken and Pat Smith, owners of the 49' LNVT Polar Mist. They are joining us on our explorations of Long Island Sound. 900 miles into 2019 and 9125 from Naples. DBH

Day #40: Oyster Bay, NY

If you're going to dream, dream big. That's why we're cruising with Zillow, the realty  app, displaying only homes priced over $11M. On the way out of Port Washington we stumbled across a little something that would be comfortable in.

At only $35M it seems like a steal.

Imagine, living in your own personal Versailles--without the constant threat of being beheaded.  Of course, to the tune of $700K per year, the tax man will be eating you alive.

There are lots of beautiful, classic boats on moorings in Oyster Bay.

To beat the heat we took the dink to Bayville's public dock and then walked 100 yards to the West Harbor Beach.

Fresh water is scarce when you're living on the hook. So, finding a free shower after swimming in saltwater is priceless.

It was 23 miles from Port Washington to Nellie's Anchorage in Oyster Bay. The hook is down in 20' of water on 100' of chain. 867 miles into 2019 and 9,102 miles from Naples. Tomorrow is supposed to be cooler. We look forward to it. DBH

Day #38 & #39: Port Washington, NY

New York City's George Washington Bridge.

Timing.  It's all in the timing.  Done right, the ebbing current makes it a fast ride. Down the Hudson, down the Harlem River, down the East River, and out into Long Island Sound.

Nellie's route through the Big Apple.

Spuyten Duyvil railroad bridge spans the entrance to the Harlem River.

We've gone through countless bridges and dealt with myraid bridge operators; both friendly and otherwise.  For several reasons though, getting through the Spuyten Duyvil railroad bridge was especially intimidating.  First, there's the name, Spuyten Duyvil, which is Dutch for "spite of the Devil".  That seems a bit auspicious.  Second, and this is important because I don't wish to appear the country bumpkin, how is Spuyten Duyvil even pronounced?    Finally, we're on a tide dictated schedule.  Being delayed, or worse ignored, by the SPY•tin DIE•vuhl RR bridge will result in many more hours underway.  Worry is a down payment on a debt that may not come due.  Such was the case with Spuyten Duyvil bridge.  It opened for Nellie without a delay.

No lack of bridges across the Harlem River.

Robinson Crusoe lives on the Harlem River.  In the land of high-rises, this is a funky scene.

The Big Apple.

At the intersection of the Harlem and East Rivers lies Hell Gate.  An appropriatly named, nasty bit of water that the prudent mariner respects.  We emerged unscathed but saw our speed double to 13.7 mph.  Who needs the rides at Coney Island?

In the land of big buck moorage Nellie found a free mooring in Port Washington, NY.

Well, I think I know why the genset's cooling waterflow has been low!

46 miles in the last two days, 844 miles into 2019 and 9079 miles from Naples.

Day #37: Half Moon Bay, NY

The Hudson has some really wide spots.  In a blow it would get interesting.  We're lucky to have had nothing but settled weather.

It's mandatory while cruising past West Point to take a picture.  As an Air Force guy I object to the tradition but, nevertheless, complied.   The picture came out poorly.  So, for your viewing pleasure, here's a picture from the Academy's web site.  If it had been a sunny day I'm sure my picture would have been better ;-)

As expected marina rates are climbing.  In the last three days we paid $1.50/ft, $2.00/ft, and tonight $2.65/ft.  Who needs a nav chart, we must be getting closer to NYC.

Today we picked up the pace as we're running short of money,   Did I mention how expensive the marinas are getting?  It was 39 miles between Poughkeepsie and Half Moon Bay, NY.  We're 798 miles into 2019 and 9034 miles from Naples.  DBH

Day #36: Poughkeepsie, NY

Lots of steel stitched together on the walking bridge in Poughkeepsie.

After the British burned down Kingston in 1777, Poughkeepsie became New York's Capital city. Poughkeepsie's influence and prestige is reflected in the ornate architecture of many of its buildings.

Poughkeepsie found an ingenious way to increase the city's size: murals of store fronts.  Now if they could collect taxes from those merchants...

From a mural in downtown Poughkeepsie: "According to Indian legend, a mighty serpent lives in the Hudson." I wonder if he has cousins in Lac Ness and Lake Champlain?

Written in the Poughkeepsie Journal's iron gate: "Here shall the press the people's right maintain."

The current made the approach to Poughkeepsie's Shadow Marina interesting. The goal, as always, is not to scratch the paint. We didn't--scratch the paint that is.

Only 6 miles today, 759 in 2019, and 8995 from Naples. DBH