Sunday, May 26, 2019

Day #6: Sauntering Down to Smith's Falls


To paraphrase Tatoo "Look boss, blue sky, blue sky!" It's something we haven't seen in a while.

Rumor has it that this bubbling brook is the source of all the Rideau's water. A simple thought experiment suggests otherwise ;-)

While visiting the the Rideau District Museum in Westport, Ontario we saw pictures and a model of the Rideau Queen. She was built in the 1890's. What drew our attention was a series of long boards, spaced about 10' apart, hanging down vertically from her second deck. Christine Janeway, the museum's curator (and an author and an artist), did some research and then told us they were fenders used while transiting locks. In fact, she showed us a current era passenger boat sporting the same lock fenders.  It makes sense, when going through a lot of locks to have the fendering always in place.

Nellie waiting at the Rideau Lake Narrows Lock 35. This is reportedly the busiest lock on the Canal. It's still very much preseason as we only saw one other boat. When the Rideau Canal opened in the 1830's it made available a huge swath of virgin forest. By the 1850's this lock alone collected tolls on 1.5M feet of oak (source: https://aragonroadhistory.wordpress.com).

A nice day on Rideau Lake, the Canal's highest point--it's all downhill from here.

Meet Ron Sherk, 69. He began his trans-Canada biking and canoeing adventure in British Columbia in 2013. Since then, in an off and on fashion, he's made it to the Rideau Canal. The picture above, courtesy of Ron's web site nomader.ca, shows his unique style of portaging. When we came across Ron in Poonamalie Lock 31, both his bike and canoe wheels were stored aboard. Large oars, with ingeniously fitted rearview mirrors, were attached to the gunwales near the yolk. He uses a traditional paddle when the water gets rough. When asked about his final destination he said "Newfoundland." But, then quickly added, "Do you know Europe has more than 3000 miles of canals?"

It's 27 miles from Westport to Smith's Falls. Most of the journey is through big, deep, open lakes. Approaching Smith's Falls the water gets shallow and the canal narrow. At one very tight, rock laden, blind bend there's a sign asking us to sound our whistle. We do and then wait and listen. There's no response. The waterway is clear, but just in case Nellie proceeds slowly.

Safely tied to the high side of Smith's Falls Lock 31. 27 miles today. 143 miles in 2019. 8380 miles since leaving Naples. And now, according to Google Maps, only one mile from a Super Walmart.  DBH