Day #10: Ottawa!

Another overflowing lock. This one, however, was done on purpose. While unique, the lock master said he likes it. When the water starts flowing over the door the lock is full.

We couldn't have asked for a nicer night on the hook. The stars came out and the winds never got above a whisper. Nellie, who is known to fight the bit, slept soundly. The locks don't start their summer hours until 15 June so this morning we got to lollygag until 10am.

The dreaded zebra mussel.

Alice in Wonderland came to mind when discussing the effects of the Rideau's zebra mussels with the lock master of Hartwells (locks 9 & 10). Zebra mussels are an invasive species which grow incredibly quickly and pack densely together. They are filter feeders and it's estimated that each mussel sieves one quart of water a day. The result is clear water. That's good right? Actually, no. The sun now penetrates to greater depths allowing grasses to grow in areas, think navigational channels, where previously they couldn't. Channel maintenance now includes mowing the grass.

Pirates of the Rideau! Luckily we were able to out run them.

The spires of the Fairmont Chateau Laurier tell us we're nearing the end of the Rideau Canal.

Try as he may, John couldn't push open the the lock that separates Nellie from the Ottawa River and points north. Because of severe flooding the river (and these last eight locks) are closed to navigation. And, for the intrepid individual that goes anyway, a $5,000 fine awaits. So, Nellie's good waiting. It's anyone's guess when the flooding will abate, but the experts say we should expect to proceed no earlier than mid June. On the bright side Nellie's the only boat here in downtown Ottawa. In fact, she's only the third boat here this season. An apt analogy is arriving at Union Station at rush hour and finding yourself all alone. Disorienting for sure, but once the dissonance passes, it's exhilarating.

15 Miles from Long Reach to downtown Ottawa. Nellie is now less than a half mile from the Rideau's terminus and 125 miles from its beginning. The blog posts will begin again when Nellie gets underway.

219 miles into 2019. 8441 miles from Naples. Less than 1/4 mile from Canada's Parliment building--how cool is that! DBH

Day #9: Lock, Lock, Lock...

Pictured is this morning's traffic jam on Merrickville lock's blue line. Gotta love it when three boats constitute a traffic jam ;-) While waiting for the 10am lock opening, a passerby by the name of Vicki (no relation:-) asked if we know of a Lord Nelson Victory Tug named Moby. Do we! Moby was Peggy Hall's patrol boat when she was the Warderick Wells, Exumas, park ranger back in the mid 1980's. Vicki said that she and Peggy were friends. This is the second time in a week that we've been approached by someone knowing the owner of one of Nellie's sister ships.

Derek and Bicki are seeing something novel, the upper pool level is so high it's flowing over the top of the lock. If the water was much higher they'd have to close the Canal.

By the time we get to Burritt's Rapids Nellie is once again all alone in the lock.

Our nature guide points out the abundant flora and fauna along the 2km long Burritt's Rapids trail.  It was nice to get a walk in just after lunch.

This evening's anchorage is a scant 12 miles south of Ottawa. We're pointing south into a less than 1 mph current. That's not too much to be worrisome but enough to keep us steady. As there's a waterfall about a mile downstream, tonight the anchor drag alarm will be set.

The homes along the Canal are getting grander. The cottages--that's what they call vacation homes in these parts--are giving way to mini mansions. The architectural styles and building materials used are changing too. The Second Empire homes common in Belleville and Kingston, have been replaced with more modern shapes. Limestone block has yielded to brick, wood and large sheets of glass. In general the homes have a very good appearance and are well kept.

It was 32 miles from Merrickville to our anchorage in Long Reach (just south of Long Island Locks 14, 15 and 16). 189 miles into 2019 and 8426 miles since leaving Naples. DBH

Day #8: On to Merrickville

A close inspection of this photo reveals several things: it's raining; it's windy; it's 47°F; and the water is a chilly-for-swimming 60°F. In other words, it's a great day to be snug and warm in Nellie's wheelhouse.

Spending time on deck as we go through the locks, makes the crew even happier to be in the dry, warm wheelhouse.

Trouble in Edmond's Lock 25. Something was keeping one of the downstream valves from fully closing. It magically cleared after the maintenance crew showed up. I asked one of the techs if they were going to take credit for the repair anyway. His answer, "We're here. It's clear. Darn right."

All the cool weather and rain has been good for the flowering plants.

Today we crossed paths with Sharyn and Derek Robinson, from South Africa, in Old Slys Lock 27. They're on the tail end of a two week cruising holiday in a rented LeBoat. They have two girls and two boys. In the beginning of his working life Derek apprenticed as a machinist--a wonderful beginning he says. It took 35 years of hard work but they built a company that makes mining equipment. They retired last year and their son-in-law, son and two partners have taken over. Sharyn and Derek are both prior international sailboat racers. Now they enjoy a more relaxed pace aboard their 30' sloop. Sharyn really enjoys traveling. Derek enjoys the trips that Sharyn puts together. Next year they plan to rent a boat and go cruising in Croatia.

It was 14 miles from Smith's Falls to Merrickville. The waterway appears to be made up of a bunch of connected ponds. What water there is is shallow. Not to worry though, the channels are very well marked. The increasing current is evidence of the Rideau's higher-than-normal water levels. Tonight we're safely tied to the Parks Canada dock at the top of the Merrickville falls. Having learned their lesson, Nellie's crew conscientiously avoided any mooring location near the top of the falls. 157 miles into 2019 and 8348 miles since leaving Naples. DBH

Day #7: Smith Falls to... Smith Falls

Nellie wakes up this morning in yet another beautiful spot, Smith's Falls.



We tested Nellie's 2M, VHF and AIS antennas for both standing wave ratio and impedance. "Spot on," was John's conclusion.



Our nemeses Eric and Christine, who in their canoe have beaten Nellie through the last 20 locks, came aboard and graciously told us their secret: get up early, take few breaks, and paddle until dark. Basically, they're winning through hard work. Yea, no. That's not going to happen aboard Nellie ;-)



Note to self, when scoping out a mooring in a town with "Falls" in its name, stay away from the top of said falls. Okay, some explanation might be in order. The Smith's Falls locks are .3 miles apart. We spent last night at the top of the southern lock. This morning we locked through and, wanting to explore town, docked Nellie against the Parks Canada wall pictured above. So far so good. But then we noticed that Nellie was being sucked hard against the wall. So much so, that the fenders looked like they were going to pop.



Looking around for an explanation we noticed the sign pictured above. In fact, there were two of them: one was in front of Nellie, the other behind her.



What we thought was a nice spot was actually dead center above the falls (at the red arrow above). The water, which is higher than normal, was rushing around Nellie on its way over the falls. It took some doing and some rubber off the fenders to extricate Nellie. Eventually we managed to get her clear but not without significant damage to our dignity.



In the above picture it may not be obvious but Nellie is working the angles. How so? Nellie's tied to a Parks Canada wall. To stay here costs $25 per night. The electric pedestal Nellie is plugged into is on the town's wall. Had we pulled around the corner, a night's mooring would have been $51. So, by staying with Parks Canada and buying our electricity for $7/day from Smith's Falls, we saved $19. It's fun working the angles.



While visiting the Railway Museum we came across this stark reminder of how much it snows up here. John is standing in front of the business end of a track snow plow. It's actually an entire train car that's pushed down the tracks by a locomotive.



The museum's railway station was a piece of the 20th century frozen in time. What does it say when many of their historical artifacts were new when I was growing up?



A new record low today, only 0.3 miles traveled between the top of Smith's Falls' locks 31 and 29A.

Safely tied to a Parks Canada wall--well back from the top of the waterfalls--in the heart of Smith's Falls, Ontario. DBH

Day #6: Sauntering Down to Smith's Falls

To paraphrase Tatoo "Look boss, blue sky, blue sky!" It's something we haven't seen in a while.

Rumor has it that this bubbling brook is the source of all the Rideau's water. A simple thought experiment suggests otherwise ;-)

While visiting the the Rideau District Museum in Westport, Ontario we saw pictures and a model of the Rideau Queen. She was built in the 1890's. What drew our attention was a series of long boards, spaced about 10' apart, hanging down vertically from her second deck. Christine Janeway, the museum's curator (and an author and an artist), did some research and then told us they were fenders used while transiting locks. In fact, she showed us a current era passenger boat sporting the same lock fenders.  It makes sense, when going through a lot of locks to have the fendering always in place.

Nellie waiting at the Rideau Lake Narrows Lock 35. This is reportedly the busiest lock on the Canal. It's still very much preseason as we only saw one other boat. When the Rideau Canal opened in the 1830's it made available a huge swath of virgin forest. By the 1850's this lock alone collected tolls on 1.5M feet of oak (source: https://aragonroadhistory.wordpress.com).

A nice day on Rideau Lake, the Canal's highest point--it's all downhill from here.

Meet Ron Sherk, 69. He began his trans-Canada biking and canoeing adventure in British Columbia in 2013. Since then, in an off and on fashion, he's made it to the Rideau Canal. The picture above, courtesy of Ron's web site nomader.ca, shows his unique style of portaging. When we came across Ron in Poonamalie Lock 31, both his bike and canoe wheels were stored aboard. Large oars, with ingeniously fitted rearview mirrors, were attached to the gunwales near the yolk. He uses a traditional paddle when the water gets rough. When asked about his final destination he said "Newfoundland." But, then quickly added, "Do you know Europe has more than 3000 miles of canals?"

It's 27 miles from Westport to Smith's Falls. Most of the journey is through big, deep, open lakes. Approaching Smith's Falls the water gets shallow and the canal narrow. At one very tight, rock laden, blind bend there's a sign asking us to sound our whistle. We do and then wait and listen. There's no response. The waterway is clear, but just in case Nellie proceeds slowly.

Safely tied to the high side of Smith's Falls Lock 31. 27 miles today. 143 miles in 2019. 8380 miles since leaving Naples. And now, according to Google Maps, only one mile from a Super Walmart.  DBH

Day #5: Wet Westport

Not everything is laughs and giggles on the Rideau Canal. The necessities must be attended to. This morning's use of the washing machine will give us clean sheet's night. Something of which the crew is always appreciative.

The Opinicon Resort is a stone's throw from Chaffey's Lock. This morning's early walk gave us a chance to really explore it.

Chaffey's, like all the locks, is a piece of living history contained within an immaculately maintained park. It's truly an immersive experience in which the passerby is invited not only to view, but to touch. Pride is taken in the masonry and mechanisms which, if aren't 1830's originals, are exact copies. To prove the point, yesterday we saw a lock sill made of concrete. While functional and beautifully made, it is an obvious anachronism as the locks are made of stone and mortar. In fact, the concrete is a temporary solution until high quality, stone blocks can be quarried.

The locks have many explanatory signs, and some even have small museums, that help explain the historical context. The following came from one of those signs:

The purpose of this remarkable artery was to provide the British army with a safe route for supplying its inland garrisons, avoiding the safe but exposed route along the St. Lawrence which only the disorganization of the American forces had prevented from being cut during the war of 1812.

  I hate to quibble with our esteemed northern friends and colleagues but, as a citizen of the United States and a member of its armed services, that is a run-on sentence.

Chaffey's Mill for which the lock was named.

Somebody was hungry...

It's the weekend and we're seeing new things; like other boats. Up to this point we've had the Rideau to ourselves. When meeting a boat in a tight passage the right-of-way is determined by "Maximus Naviculam"--often interpreted as, "my boat is bigger" ;-)

It's a scenic 12 miles from Chaffey Lock to Westport. We are now on the Upper Rideau Lake, the highest body of water on the Rideau Canal. We've climbed 166' above Kingston, where we started on the canal. Now we'll descend 275' to Ottawa. 12 miles today. 116 miles this year. And, 8,352 into the Loop.

Day #4: On to the Opinicon

The locks don't open until 9am.  Since we're up with the sun at 5:30am, there's lots of time to read and relax.

Locking through Lower Brewers.

Just another bucolic scene.

This couple is taking 7 days to canoe the 127 miles between Kingston and Ottawa.  At night they're camping; for which the locks charge $5/person.   We've been in lockstep since Kingston.  Taking pity we offered them a ride.  They politely refused saying something about that defeating the whole purpose of their trek.  Maybe, but we'll see how their shoulders feel in few days ;-)

Jones Falls Lock #41 is filled to busting.  Bicki is shocked as there's not enough wall to fender Nellie off.

Tonight Nellie is safely tied to the Opinicon Resort's dock.  According to Andrew, the dock master, we are the marina's first overnight guests of the year.  He went on to say that it has been so cold, and the flooding so pervasive, that folks are late getting their boats into the water.  Looks like we won't be fighting for a spot in the hot tub tonight.

The little spur in our route just south of Jones Falls was for lunch.  We dropped the hook, cooked burgers on the grill, and took a nap.  This cruising life is exhausting.

Still no news on when the Ottawa River will open for navigation.  As it stands now, the Rideau is a 126 mile dead end.

21 miles today.  104 miles in 2019.  8,341 miles into the Loop.  DBH

Day #3: Up the Rideau to Washburn Lock #45

The Kingston's LaSalle Causeway Bridge marks the beginning of the Rideau Canal.

Down the St. Lawrence or up the Rideau Canal? Decisions, decisions. We've opted for the later because it's more scenic and offers easier cruising. Hopefully by the time we get to Ottawa its eponomous river will be open to navigation.

Rain buffets us on the River Styx.

Ascending the River Styx we hit first rain and then thick water grasses. The grasses fouled the prop and keel, slowing us dramatically. Going hard in reverse cleared the grasses, but only momentarily. Fortunately, 45 minutes of slow forward progress saw us through the quagmire. Note to self, be sure to check the engine strainer before heading out tomorrow.

Waiting on the blue line at Rideau Lock #49

It's important to both grasp the essential elements of one's profession and to be able to explain them clearly and concisely to the layman. When Washburn's Master was asked to explain the basic principle of lock operation, she replied, "Water flows down hill." Hard to be more clear and concise than that.

Nellie is tied at the base of Washburn Lock #45.  An old mill and the quickly running water that drove it is off to port.

16 Miles from Kingston to Washburn.

Knowing that today's run would only be 16 miles, Nellie didn't depart Kingston until almost 1 PM. Tonight we're safely tied to dock at Washburn Lock #45. 16 miles today. 84 miles for 2019. 8320 miles into the Great Loop. DBH