90 minutes

Day #12: Underway early, with a purring engine, we looked forward to a 'routine' day. And the engine did purr, for two hours--then it didn't. The routine day? It wasn't. Every hour-and-a-half we dropped the hook, stopped the engine, and removed the air from the three fuel filters (a filter is pictured above). We can look forward to repeating this process until we fix the problem. Hey, there's a motivator! Oh well, cruising has been defined as fixing your boat in new and interesting places. To this saying we can add: and doing so every hour-and-a-half.

We dropped the hook for the evening in Port Royal, SC. Port Royal is just a few miles south of Beaufort. 47nm today, 3 anchorings, and 621nm total. DBH

Nellie gets the hiccups

Day #11: The day dawns clear and brisk. We're especially grateful to have escaped the Chesapeake and yesterday's snow storm. The routine of this cruise is comfortable: up before dawn; check the engine; plot the day's route; and enjoy the first cup of coffee. This routine was shaken-up a little when, right after weighing anchor, Nellie's engine started to hiccup. I hadn't noticed before but my heart rate and Nellie's are in sync. It was apparent today though; as her RPMs fluctuated, so did mine. Lack of fuel, either from a blocked filter or air in the line, is the first suspect in situations like these. Since Nellie was running ok, if not wheezing a little, we headed to Bohicket Marina on St. Johns Island (just south of Kiawah), SC. Once moored the investigation began. Sure enough, there was air in the secondary fuel filter. Changing the filters and priming the system was rewarded with a successful engine test run. Liberty was then announced and the crew, which hadn't been ashore in a week, headed to a pizza parlor. So, today wasn't quite the 'routine' we're accustomed to, but I must admit it was a very pleasurable diversion.

At the dock, Bohicket Marina, St Johns Island, SC. 10nm today and 574nm so far. DBH

Where are we?

Day #10: Just before we first started cruising in 1994 we bought a $1000 sextant and an $800 GPS. It took me weeks to learn to use the sextant. We lived in Utah at the time and I was happy, if after a practice session, it located me anywhere within the surrounding four states. Months went by before I could determine my position as actually being within the borders of Utah. The GPS? Turn it on and read the latitude and longitude--it gave an accurate position within 100 yards. (Henry the Navigator would have killed for a GPS.) Our poor sextant. It was only used once at sea and even then we were hundreds of miles from land where a large position error wouldn't matter. Today GPS' are ubiquitous. The photo above, taken of an iPhone's screen, not only shows Nellie's position but also the houses that are for sale around her. Nope, no way a sextant can do that. Good riddance.

Update: our sextant is mounted on a walnut plaque and hangs in a prominent place in the house. That first GPS? It was relegated, long ago, to the silicone junk heap in the sky.

Irony aside, thanks to our GPS we know we anchored in Toogoodoo Creek, SC, which is 22nm south of Charleston. 67nm today and 563nm into the trip. DBH

Time and tide ...

Day #9: Today, for the first time on this trip, there was no big water to cross. The ICW is a fairly narrow canal as it winds through Myrtle Beach, SC. Then, on the approach to Georgetown, SC, it's a good sized river. Finally it becomes one canal among many that crisscross the tidal grasslands north of Charleston, SC. The tidal range, which is 2' in Maryland has grown to 6' here in South Carolina. When large tidal swings are coupled with narrow waterways, big currents can result. The effect on Nellie is pretty dramatic. Without current she cruises at 7 kts. With today's currents we saw ground speeds anywhere from 4 kts to 9.5 kts. To put all this in perspective, it takes almost 2.5 times longer, and costs 2.5 times more in fuel, to get somewhere at 4 vs. 9.5 kts. Getting there faster and cheaper, that's why the crew is always happy to be carried along by a favorable current. (Truth be known, it might not be so much the expedited arrival as an earlier happy hour that thrills the crew.) Since cruising on the ICW is dictated more by daylight hours than tides, it's always a joy when the two line up. Today's photograph was taken when Nellie, aka Speed Racer, hit 9.5 kts.

At anchor in the South Santee River, 37 miles NE of Charleston, SC. 68nm today and 496nm thus far.

Eye of the beholder

Day #8: We've been traveling in lockstep with a beautiful Trumpy by the name of Hummingbird. For those not familiar, Trumpy is to yachts what Rolls Royce is to cars--the epitome of class and style. Of the 400+ Trumpys built, fewer than 90 exist today. This morning Hummingbird was cruising just behind us when a third boat, Feeling Free, radioed to say they'd be passing us both. In mid pass Feeling Free radioed again to say they were going to take some pictures. Sure, I thought, Hummingbird is indeed a beautiful boat. Imagine my surprise then when Feeling Free pulls next to Nellie and starts snapping away. Oh yea, life's too short to own an ugly boat!

Thank you to Scott Akerman, of Blue Water Sailing magazine, for emailing us the photos he took from Feeling Free. One of which appears at the top of this posting.

At anchor 12 miles east of Myrtle Beach, SC. 51nm today and 427nm so far.

Weather on my mind

Day #7: Since departing Maryland the weather has been nothing short of perfect. The barometer has been steady and the winds fair. And, since departing Maryland, I've done nothing but worry about the weather. Specifically, when will it change. It's ironic in the midst of a seven day winning streak that all I'd think about is rolling snake-eyes. I've got a feeling I'm not alone among mariners for being caught out is a 'significant emotional event'. So much so that there's a saying aboard Nellie: "I'd rather be on the beach wishing I was out cruising, than be out cruising and wishing I was on the beach." So, with all this in mind, tomorrow we tackle the Cape Fear River knowing the barometer has started dropping. Anyone want to blow on these dice?

Today's picture was taken just after dawn on Adams Creek Canal about 10 miles west of Beaufort, NC. The fog was thick enough at times that we were navigating on instruments alone.

At anchor in Wrightsville Beach, NC. 84nm today and 376nm to date. DBH

There is an App for that

Day #6: The vast expanses of the ICW, which can hold millions of boats without their crews feeling cramped, is in stark contrast to its many narrow channels. In the tightest confines there's often barely enough room for two boats abreast. Proximity like this causes lots of problems and problems like these are fertile ground for the innovative mariner ;-) Case in point, why is it that cars have rearview mirrors but boats don't? Boats could use the mirrors because it's common courtesy to make room when being overtaken. Ok, so how do you put rearview mirrors on a boat without losing cool points? Or better yet, get rearview capability using only those things you have aboard. Apple to the rescue. The iPad in the above picture doubles as a rearview mirror by displaying what an iTouch, duct taped to Nellie's stern, sees! Now if we can only find some way to safely steer the boat while we play with all the toys ...

At anchor 10 miles west of Beaufort, NC. 66nm today and 292nm to date. DBH

Baby it is dark outside!

Day #5: The weather is perfect and there's big water ahead. That's why we've decided to press on well after dark. The photo is pretty accurate as to what we can see. There's no moon so our searchlight, which is focused 100 yards in front of the bow, is our only light. The birds and bugs swirl and dive though the light as though performing for an audience. We can see those darn, green-pooping, midges congregating by the thousands on the bulwarks. Clean-up duty will be arduous tomorrow. There aren't many channel markers in Albermarle Sound so mostly we're hoping to spot crab pots. Our ETA at the Pongo/Alligator River canal is midnight. There we'll drop the hook. We'll be sure to lock all the doors too for it was at this spot, in May, we saw a black bear swimming across the canal.

Our watch schedule after dark is half an hour on and half an hour off. Staring at the limited, illuminated, area ahead, all the while scanning the chart-plotter and instruments, gets tiring. We are, however, rewarded with an incredible view of the stars.

Underway on Albermarle Sound, NC. 67nm so far today and 211nm on the trip. DBH

Old friends

Day #4: The dead calm last night made for great sleeping on the hook. Sunrise came with a stiff breeze. Underway at first light we were amazed to find ourselves in the midst of 11 other cruising boats. We've never been part of the annual migration of cruisers seeking warmer climes--until now.

Norfolk always has a busy waterfront and today was no exception. We danced with loaded tugs, armed navy guard boats, two 1000' cargo ships, and hundreds of littler boats. All the while it felt like we were racing the other cruisers for the limited number of free slips in downtown Portsmouth. Free slips, you see, are like honey to a cruiser. As luck would have it we managed to snag the last available slip.

Returning late to Nellie after dinner at the Bier Garden and a movie at the Commodore, yea, this cruising life is pure hell, we hear our names being called. We'd first met Dave and Nancy Poorvu in 2009 when weather pinned us all down on Grand Bahama Island. Now here Dave was with his crew-mate Billy. They'd departed Ocean City, MD this morning and had just arrived. As luck would have it they spotted Nellie while out on a walk. The picture shows Billy on the left and Dave on the right.

At Portsmouth's northern basin dock. 51nm today and 137nm to date. DBH

A classic plastic boat?

Dawn may come early on a boat but it's not like we noticed. Can't imagine why but Nellie's crew was tired. Rising well after sunrise we topped off the water tanks and began, in earnest, the journey south. The winds, which delayed our departure for three days, had allegedly blown themselves out. Well, almost blown themselves out. We found 20kts on the Bay and a bit of a chop. No problem though as it fell on the stern quarter. After arriving at our Gwynn Island, VA anchorage, we were approached by a classic, gaff-rigged, Hoopers Island sharpie. At the helm was Eric Hedberg. Eric is a wooden boat builder of the old school, but while admiring his beautiful craft he told me he'd made it of PVC. Plastic--no way! He explained that since PVC comes in boards, fabrication isn't all that much different than working with wood. Adhesives like Plexus and epoxy hold everything together. For paint, he used Rust-Oleum. Since the PVC expands much more than wood he'd had problems with buckling metal rub strakes. With PVC Eric can build a 'traditional' boat which doesn't suffer from traditional wooden boat problems. Eric's sharpie is six years old and looks brand new. See some pictures at: http://www.rionholdt.com/Hooper%20Island%20Sharpie.html

At anchor on the west side of Gwynn's Island, VA. 57nm today and 84nm total. DBH

The gale diminishes

Day #2: Fifty percent of the distance covered today was from where Nellie sat on the hard to the water. The tyranny of the yard is over thanks to the completion of the last two jobs, i.e. new bottom paint and a repacked rudder gland. After splashing, Nellie moved a whole 100 yards more. She could have gone farther but her crew is tired. So, this evening will be spent in the comfort of a slip with electricity. Our planned departure was delayed a few days by a gale but all looks good for tomorrow. Miami, here we come. At P. L. Jones' Boat Yard, Hoppers Island, MD. 200 yards today and 25 nm total. DBH

Underway ... sort of.

Day #1: Our journey to Miami begins with a short sea trial of the new fuel tanks and exhaust hose. The 4.5 hour trip to Hoopers Island was easy and enjoyable as all systems operated nominally. Nellie's now on the hard to have her bottom painted and the rudder packing gland renewed. The trip to Miami will continue again in a few weeks. DBH