Day #14: This was a day of cruising dichotomy. We woke to the smell of hot Krispy Kreme donuts, which were delivered, along with the newspaper, right to Nellie's companionway (for you landlubbers that's the front door). Now we're gliding by golden grass coved hammocks without a sign of civilization in sight--not to mention a Krispy Kreme. South of Savannah the ICW becomes more like island cruising than river cruising. One large island after another is all that separates us from the Atlantic. Sounds, the big bodies of water between the islands and open to ocean swell, have names like St. Catherines, Sapelo, Doboy, and Altamaha. The winds are 20kts from the north but Nellie cuts a clean path through the moguls and gives her crew a comfortable ride. The tide here has an 8' swing. At anchor in Teakettle Creek, GA, we get used to hearing the rapidly rushing water. Its lapping sound reassures us that the anchor is holding; in these waters it's silence we fear. 53nm today and 711nm total. DBH
