Day #31: Aground near Seneca Falls, NY

Just East of Lyons the Canal gets Wider but more Claustrophobic as the Trees Crowd the Water.  Gone is the Tow Path.  This is Part of a Canal Upgrade Designed to Carry Stream Powered Packet Boats

Bicki Checks to See if Lock 25's Doors are Open

Aground at the Very Beginning of the Cayuga-Seneca Canal.  There's a Standing Order aboard Nellie that the Helmsman Responsible for the Grounding Buys Dinner for Everyone Aboard.  I suggested McDonald's.  Bicki's Looking at Places with French Names

Welcome to the Finger Lakes.  Looking South down the 35 Mile Length of Lake Cayuga.  After the Narrow Canals this Wide Expanse is Disorienting

The Cayuga-Seneca Stairstep Locks 2 and 3 Lift Us Up 50 feet--the Height Difference Between Lakes Cayuga and Seneca

26 Miles from Lyons, NY to Seneca Falls, NY

It's hot. No, really, really hot--93°F at 9 pm hot. Fortunately Nellie was able to get a place on Seneca Falls' wall with 30A electric. This means we get to enjoy this cute hamlet (formed in 1831) in air conditioned comfort. Ironically, the falls for which the town was named no longer exist. To quote the historical literature, they were "canalized". DBH

Day #30: Discovering Leonardo in Lyons, NY

Between Fairport, NY and Lyons, NY the Terrain Changes and gets Distinctly more Hilly

Leonardo da Vinci's Mitre Gate Design for the San Marco Lock in Milan, Italy, was used for All of the Erie Canal's 35 Locks

Lyons, NY, established in 1789 Once Produced One-third of the US' Peppermint Oil

26 Miles from Fairport, NY to Lyons, NY

The temperatures climbed into the 90's today but the Canal's 73° water coupled with the steady 15 mph western winds made the traveling comfortable. However, Nellie's air conditioner went on the second we tied up and the shore cord was plugged in.

Safely tied to the free wall in Lyons, NY. DBH

Day #29:. Metal Detector in Fairport, NY

This picture could be titled "Driving to Work" or perhaps "Upstate Traffic Jam"

We're off at the crack of 8 am. Fairport and rumors that hot, fresh bread can be had there spur us on. While we find the bread, and it is great, the real surprise is the village's vitality.

Canal cruising is as benign as it gets yet there are still lessons to be learned. For example, eddies can form when water flows around bridge piers. Nellie traditionally responds to these by doing a little s-turn. But, hold on, Nellie's "jig" is occuring even when there isn't a current. Clearly something else is going on. The "something else" turns out to be the autopilot; specifically its fluxgate compass. Huge chunks of steel, like bridges, disrupt the surrounding magnetic field. Of course Nellie's autopilot doesn't know it's under a bridge, it just knows that magnetic north has moved and responds accordingly. We also notice the"jig" when going over a submerged pipeline. Nellie's like a good hunting dog. But, instead of going on point for a bird, she "jigs" for metal.

On the Wall in Vibrant and Pretty Fairport, NY

1800's Italianate Style with Cupuloa

31 Miles from Brockport, NY to Fairport, NY

The price of cruising is skyrocketing. Our stay on Fairport's downtown wall costs $14--a whopping 17% increase over last night. Of course using a hedonic price model that will be adjusted downwards to account for all the goodies in the gift bag we received: three pens; a flashlight; a book by a local author and; enough to-do information to sink a boat. DBH

Day #28: Confused in Brockport, NY

Rain, Rain Go Away...

The NAPA Store is made of the Brown Standstone for which Medina is Famous

The sign said, Alternator and Starter Repair, and I had an alternator question. The congenial man behind the counter answered my question by explaining that a condenser's job was to eliminate the static that would otherwise be heard on the car's radio. Next I asked about his alternator and starter repair business. "Oh, we're out of that" he said, "I just haven't taken down the sign yet." He went on to explain that the price of new, Chinese alternators is so low that it's cheaper to buy a new one than fix a broken one.  Next I asked if import duties would have kept his repair business alive. "Yea, maybe" was the response. Then, after a moment's delay, "No, probably not." I had to laugh, there in a nutshell is the trade debate and the mixed feelings it engenders.

25 Miles from Medina, NY to Brockport, NY

Safely tied to Brockport's wall. It's $12/night but that includes electric, water, heads, showers and two bikes! Nellie's up to 602 miles for the year and 7031 miles since leaving Naples. DBH

Day #28: Managing the Unknown in Medina, NY

Heading East Out of Middleport, NY.  The Helm is Littered with Sources of Helpful Information

As in any endeavour, successful cruising depends on the quality and quantity of the information available. Cruising guides, both printed and electronic, are invaluable; as are the blogs of those that have proceeded us. But, without a doubt, the most valuable information comes from talking with other cruisers face to face.

For the past month I asked everyone we met if they've cruised to Quebec City. Yesterday, I got the answer I was looking for. It was both pertinent and succinct. From Sorel, Quebec go down the St. Lawrence and anchor for the night in Trois-Rivières, Quebec. Arrive at Vieux Port de Quebec Marina the next day. It's a great Marina from which to see a wonderful city. Time the return trip up the St. Lawrence to get a lift from the flood tide.

Oh Dear, some Unfortunate Soul had the North Guillotine Fall Upon Them...

Going Through Lock 34.  A Tour Boat in Front of Us and Harbour Reach Behind

Leaving lock 34 was interesting. The Lockview V, a 125-passenger, 65', double-decker boat proceeded us out. Currents and eddies can sometimes make getting the boat away from the lock wall a challenge. I'm always interested in learning different departure tactics and so was paying attention to Lockview V's technique. He simply powered forward and never got any real separation from the wall. Everything appeared to be going fine until he exited the lock. Then the Lockview 5 went hard up against the concrete wall. Initially I thought he was purposefully landing the boat. However, the crew's frantic efforts to push off told another story. It took several minutes to extricate themselves and how they finally did so wasn't readily apparent. However, this bad example did provide a good lesson: do whatever is necessary to get a steep departure angle from the lock wall.

Ever Vigilant, Bicki Waves to Passersby Even When Flat on Her Back

32 Miles Between Tonawanda, NY and Medina, NY

Tonight Nellie is safely tied to the Medina town wall. DBH

Day #27: Learning in Tonawanda, NY

Nellie Waits on the Wall in the Black Rock Canal

Cruising is all about learning. Sometimes the process is painful. Sometimes it's frustrating. Most times it's fun. Today we got a sample of all three.

Getting from Buffalo to Tonawanda requires Nellie to traverse the 3.5 mile long Black Rock Canal. Two bridges and a lock are contained within the Canal. The Army Corps passes north bound pleasure boats on the odd hour starting at 9 am. Miss the opening and you get to cool your heals for two hours. Standing between Nellie and the lock are two low bridges which must open to allow us through. Fortunately, they both are manned starting at 8 am and open upon request.

Working with these constraints Bicki plans, with military precision, our arrival at each bridge and the lock. Things were going swimmingly until we arrived at the first bridge, Ferry Street. Our 8:30 am request to open was greeted with "No". Well, not actually "No", but that was the gist of it. We were told that since the lock doesn't open until 9 am they weren't going to pass us until then. Explaining to the bridge operator that that would make Nellie 15 minutes late for the lock's opening held no sway. So, we waited.

Looking South at the Peace Bridge.  The Calm Waters of the Black Rock Canal on the Left.  The Churning Waters of the Niagara River on the Right

The Ferry Street Lift Bridge

At 9 am on the button I again requested a bridge opening. This time we were greeted with a friendly voice that said, "Good Morning. Bridge going up".

The next bridge opened without us having to do anything. And, although we were late arriving at the Lock, they passed us through without comment.

Much of cruising is like this. You learn all you can about the obstacles between you and your destination. You form a plan to overcome the obstacles. Then, along the way, invariably, the best laid plans are painfully and frustratingly blown asunder. All you can do is laugh because this is part of the fun of cruising.

Welcome to the West End of the Erie Canal.  Only 339 Miles to Albany and the Canal's Eastern Terminus

Ever Wonder Where Carousels were Made?  Five Such Companies Operated in North Tonawanda. The Allan Herschell Company was in Business from 1883 to 1955.

16 Miles From Buffalo, NY to Tonawanda, NY

On the Tonawanda town wall. DBH

Day #25 & 26: Buffalo, NY

Visiting Family--This Picture Says it All

Safe Harbor Marina, Buffalo, NY

No miles this weekend. We start moving east on the Erie Canal tomorrow. DBH

Day #24: Buffalo, NY

32 Miles from Lockport, NY to Buffalo, NY

The Erie Canal ends at the Niagra River--10 miles above the eponymous Falls. On entering the river a cruiser has two choices: turn right and run with the current or; turn left and beat against the current. Here's the catch, down the easier path lies certain doom. This seems analogous to so many of life's decisions where often the better choice follows the more difficult path. One thing is for certain, no one ever fell over a waterfall while going upstream. DBH

Day #23: Daddy Locks in Lockport, NY

Guard Gates 

Guard Gates placed along the canal can be lowered to protect against damage from a Lock failure or from spring flooding. On first sighting one, Bicki casually said they look like guillotines.  I now keep my head low on my shoulders while passing under them.

Lockport Looms Large in the Distance

Lock 34's Doors in Front of Nellie are Five Stories Tall

The 1910 Work to Expand the Lockport Locks.  Note the Church Steeple in the Picture's Upper, Right-hand Corner.  Now Look at the Picture Below

Now, Move the Clock Forward from 1910 to 2018 and Nellie Makes it into the Picture.  Note the same Church Steeple as in the Picture Above

50 Miles from Spencerport, NY to Lockport, NY

Nellie passed under 15 lift bridges today. We were dreading the experience fearing it would be similar to the slog on the Intracoastal Waterway. How wrong we were. The bridge tenders couldn't have been nicer.  They even called ahead to let their counterparts know we were coming.  Most of the lift bridges were up by the time Nellie arrived and she didn't even have to break stride.

Tonight we're at yet another free mooring. This time at the top of Lock 35 in Lockport, NY. DBH

Day #22: Bobbing Along to Spencerport, NY

Lock 32, Pittsford, NY Puts Out a lot of Whitewater when it's Being Emptied

The Erie Canal cost $7,000,000 to build and paid for itself it 10 years.

Our First Lift Bridge on the Erie Canal is in Fairport, NY.  Lift Bridges can be Identified by the U.S. and NY State flags that fly at their Midspan

Encompassing Lock 34 and 35 is the Niagara Escarpment where the Canal was Cut through Solid Rock 

Canal Boat Rentals are popular around Rochester

Bridges like those in Venice, Italy

A Jogging Path where Once there was Only a Towpath

45 Miles from Newark, NY to Spencerport, NY

Tonight we're in Spencerport, yet another cute town with a free dock, water and electric. DBH

Day #21: Down Day in Clayton

The Clayton, NY Dock

Mike on Celtic Cross, a Fischer 30 sailboat docked behind us yesterday. He just purchased her in Sault Ste. Marie and is single-handing her home to Virginia. While on Lake Erie a few weeks ago he hit a storm and was at the helm for three days. He said the waves were directionless and like teeth--straight up and down. It was all he could do to keep the boat pointed into the wind. He showed us his hands, they were covered with blisters. Finally, dehydrated and exhausted he called for help. The Canadian Coast Guard towed him in. The next two days were spent in a hospital. If anybody's looking for a Fischer 30, Mike says his is for sale.

The Big Picture--120 miles from Buffalo

We took the day off today; not counting the time doing laundry, grocery shopping, and boat repairs. Moving west tomorrow. DBH

Day #20: A Little Short of Madness in Newark, NY

A Rare Long, Straight Run on the Erie Canal

Some how saying that the Erie Canal opened in 1825 doesn't drive home how really long ago that was. Thomas Jefferson and John Adams were alive in 1825. In fact, while President, Jefferson--the visionary--called the 1808 proposal to build the 363 mile long canal, "a little short of madness."

Held up by Workboats at Lock 25

Tug for Sale Cheap--Just Needs a Little TLC

This Bridge is Low, Old, Rusty and Really, Really Heavy.  What are the Chances it'll Pick the Time Nellie's Beneath it to Collapse?  Great News, it Didn't!

54 Miles from Baldwinsville, NY to Newark, NY

My completely mistaken preconception of the Erie Canal was that it would be long and straight (much like that shown in this posting's first picture). A quick glance at today's route dashes that silly notion.

Safely tied to the free wall in Newark, NY (with free electric, water, heads and showers too). Nellie has gone 400 miles this year and 6,833 miles since leaving Naples in 2016. DBH