Thursday, May 10, 2012

The real Exumas

Day #28: Dead calm. This is an Exumas we haven't seen--have heard it talked about a lot though. This is nice. All the foul weather made the cays windward side terra incognita. Today we rectify that.

First though we finished what we started yesterday, by successfully traversing Shroud Cay's mangroves from sea-to-sea. The mangrove waterways are very shallow and can only be traversed near high tide. So like a scuba diver exploring an underwater cave we devote one eye to the clock. Much scarring of the sandy bottom, which I agree is not nearly as dramatic as say sun bleached bones, is none the less evidence of some of our predecessors' inattention to time :-0 Today's picture is of a triumphant Bicki after making it to our Eldorado-du-jour.

Camp Driftwood on Shroud Cay, which is close to where today's picture was taken is famous for having been a DEA outpost. Here US agents kept tabs on the goings-on at the mob owned Norman's Cay just to the north. Happily those days are gone and the only remnant, besides bullet holes in some walls, is a crashed DC-3 in the water on the south end of Normans.

The DC-3 wreck was kept to port as we passed through Normans Cay Cut bound for the Exuma Sound and our terra incognita. Immediately apparent was the rapid, incoming current--a readily discernible affect of the full moon. Coasting northward we see rocky outcroppings and much greater water depths than on the leeward side. Our destination has the intriguing name of 'Island World'. The few cruiser reviews say it's a magical place but with a difficult approach. Sure enough, we play 'dodge the reef and shoals' before slipping between two sentinel rocks and into the anchorage's anteroom. To starboard we see a beautiful, deserted half-moon beach. On its far end is a thatched roof hut with bamboo walkways right out of Steveson's Swiss Family Robinson. Floatsom from the world's fisheries decorates the scene by dangling like so many earrings. Past the beach we round a rock outcropping that's guarding a small dock. The tiny anchorage is beyond the dock off another pretty little beach. This place is idyllic and like nothing we've seen in the Exumas. Then it dawns on me, it's an illusion. This is the destination for an excursion trip sold to cruise ship passengers in Nassau. Oh well, it may not be real but it's no less pretty. As fast as these thoughts flashed through my head, we were speeding by the anchorage. Ah, that pesky full moon current. It was driving us into a narrowing channel the end of which was too shallow for Nellie. After a pulse-raising u-turn we decided to forego 'Island World'. Not sure why. The current alone was enough to dissuaded us. Upon reflection though, I'd like to think we left because no matter how nice the place was, it wasn't real. This trip is about escaping to the Exumas, not from them. 20nm today to find a real Exumas anchorage off Highborne Cay and 513nm into the adventure. DBH