We bow and stern anchored last night on the Tombigbee's left bank ascending (LBA). We figured this was a safe place because (1) it was an inside corner after a fairly sharp upriver turn--push boats go wide in turns--and (2) we were on a bar outside the marked channel. Within the hour the first push boat went by and showed us the error in our ways. In order to navigate the tight bend a quarter mile down river, the push boat started turning to port before he got past us. His stern, churning out lots of whitewater, got within 50' of Nellie. On the VHF I asked the push boat's skipper if we'd been in his way. Very politely he said, "A little. You'd be better off 100 yards upstream." And then offered, "By the way, my buddy is right behind me." Not wishing a repeat performance we quickly moved to the prescribed location. Little did we know the evening's work had just begun.
Something aboard was burning. A quick check of the engine room revealed a dense, billowing cloud of white smoke coming off the starter motor. Turning off the battery's master switch slowed and then completely stopped the smoke. The immediate crisis was averted. Now the problem was the engine wouldn't start, the boat had no electrical power--we were figuratively and literally in the dark--and we were 39 miles from the closest help.
Spoiler alert: we lived, the starter motor didn't!
It took four hours to diagnose the problem (the relay had stuck closed) and replace all the broken pieces. At midnight it was a sweet sound when the engine started.
This morning, a bit weary and leary, we continued upstream. A common sight, built-up sand bars on the inside corners and scoured banks on the outside corners. Nellie's speed was improved by favoring inside corners.
The Demopolis Lock and Dam is a welcome sight at MM213. This lock separates the Black-Warrior Tombigbee Waterway from it's allegedly more placid northern brother the Tenn-Tom Waterway. They're both about equal in length but the Tenn-Tom has 5 times as many locks and thus supposedly offers a more controlled environment. Having written that, why do I feel there's another lesson in the offing?
Demopolis marks the end of a very challenging section of the river. I keep shaking my head in amazement at all the things we didn't know. But, the last four days have been a graduate course full of valuable lessons in river navigation.
In Demopolis, Alabama. 39 miles today and 1499 miles into the journey. DBH.