Day 156: Whoa, That's Fast

Chattanooga's Hunter Museum

We sailed right past downtown Chattanooga today.  We'll be visiting it on the way down river. Today's destination was the Chattanooga Yacht Club.

Eleanor and Terry Keith (and Lil' Toot 37VT74)

Last year the Keith's bought Lil' Toot, the next to last Lord Nelson Victory Tug built.  We had only corresponded via email so it was nice to finally meet face to face.  Truth be known, it was the Keith's that got us interested in Chattanooga as a cruising destination.  Heck, before our conversations I didn't even know you could cruise to Chattanooga.  As if to underscore the point that it is possible, Terry's done the trip between Mobile and Chattanooga an incredible 60 times! 

The boathouses of Chattanooga Yacht Club

Whoa, That's Fast WiFi

It used to be that having access to WiFi aboard a boat was rare. Now that most marinas provide it, the great differentiator is the speed of the service.  It's common to see download speeds of 1 Mbps and I'm thrilled when it's 3 Mbps.  Now that I've seen 43 Mbps here at the Chattanooga Yacht Club, I'm totally spoiled.  It's said that bringing a car along while cruising on a boat, ruins the cruise.  I'm concerned the same may be true of finding fast internet...

At the Chattanooga Yacht Club, Tennessee River MM477.5, on Lake Chicamauga.  A short but scenic 23 miles today; now at 2001 miles total.  DBH

Day 155: Into the Smokies

Tearing Down the B.B. Comer Bridge (built in 1929)

Tennessee River MM 444 Looking East

We crossed two lines today: the Alabama/Tennessee border and the time zone.  Hello Tennessee and Eastern Daylight Time!  Long gone are the bayous of coastal Alabama.  The hills picture above are the beginnings of the Smokey Mountains.  The farther east we go the bigger the hills get.

What Remains of the Old Hales Bar Lock and Dam

I took the above picture because I thought the old building looked interesting.  The building's story however, is even more interesting.  The powerhouse building, built by the Tennessee Electric Power Company (TEPCO) on Hales Bar, is all that remains of the eponymous lock and dam.  When it was completed in 1913, the lock's 40' lift was the largest in the world.   Before Hales Bar was built this section of river was particularly dangerous.  Today, as we traversed the bends named Whirlpool and Suck, I'm happy to report there was no evidence of those once powerful phenomenon.

The Horseshoe Around Raccoon Mountain

As the crow flies we were only 1-1/2 miles away from our anchorage.  However, it was 8-1/2 miles following the Tennessee River around Raccoon Mountain.

Today's Route

Made 78 miles to the good, upping our total to 1,978 miles.  Nellie is securely anchored in 30' of tranquil water behind Williams Island.  DBH

Day 154: The Snail Darter Story

Tennessee Valley Authority

It's impossible to cruise the Tennessee and not be reminded of the TVA (Tennessee Valley Authority)--if only because their signs are everywhere.  In fairness, they did build all the locks, dams, and power plants along the river's 600 mile length.  The TVA is a Government owned corporation that came about during the Great Depression.  It's goal was to boost the economy of what was then a very poor area.

The Tellico Dam, the 69th built by the TVA, is arguably it's most infamous.  Started in 1968 it's construction was temporarily halted in 1975 by the newly enacted Endangered Species Act.  The sail darter, a 4" fish which lives in the Little Tennessee, became the subject of a  court battle when it was listed as an endangered species. 

Snail Darter

The TVA won the initial court case.  However, on appeal the verdict was overturned and work on the dam was halted. The Supreme Court upheld the Appeals Court verdict.  The dam was 95% complete at the time.

After several other legislative efforts to resuscitate the Tellico Dam failed.  Senator Howard Baker of Tennessee, successfully added a rider to a 1979 appropriations bill.  The Tellico's construction was finished later that same year.

Where are we now? 

According to Charles Schultze, President Carter's chief economic advisor, the TVA's economic justification of the Tellico Dam was completely spurious.  The TVA's numbers were so bad, he said, that even divided by 20 the project couldn't pay for itself.

According to Dr. David Etnier, the University of Tennessee biologist who discovered the snail darter in August 1973, he was in the river to find some endangered animal that could be used to stop construction on the Tellico Dam.  The snail darter was his dream come true.

The snail darter's habitat was destroyed by the Tellico Dam.  However, snail darters are now known to exist in other areas.  In 1984 their status was upgraded from endangered to threatened.

It was a stormy day here in Scottsboro, Alabama.  We stayed tried to the dock in Goose Pond Marina.  Holding at 1900 miles for the trip. DBH

Day 153: Unclaimed Baggage

Rocky Bluff Before Guntersville Lock and Dam

Guntersville Lake is Huge

Guntersville Lock raised us 40' to 594' above sea level.  The lakes which form at the head of the dams are getting larger and larger.  Guntersville Lake rivals the Chesapeake Bay in width. 

Looking for My Lost Stuff

Many of our side trips are because of recommendations from fellow cruisers.  If there was such a thing, Unclaimed Baggage would be shoo-in for a Cruiser's Choice Award.  Unclaimed Baggage sells the things we leave on airplanes or are lost by the airlines.  The place is as big and well stocked as a Walmart, except it's chock-full of designer names.  In their formal wear department were some wedding dresses--lost on the way home from the big day, I hope.  iPads were plentiful and stacked unceremoniously like plates.  The place has a voyeuristic feeling.  Unlike at Goodwill, this stuff wasn't voluntarily given away.  Someone, somewhere, is missing that wedding dress.   As for me, I was disappointed I couldn't find the Learn to Windsurf book I'd left on Delta Airlines back in 1983.

Along the Entrance to Goose Pond

For the $1/ft we're paying the marina they provide a floating dock with electric and water, WiFi, a pool, and a loaner car.  It'll be hard going back to the northeast where $2/ft is the norm.

In the Goose Pond Colony Marina, Scottsboro, AL.  A total of 57 miles today and 1900 miles into the journey.

Day 152: Slowly Onwards

A Walk in the Woods

We were off at the crack of noon today.  A thunderstorm pinned us down early.  A desire to explore the park took up the rest of the morning.

Southern Tennessee RR Bridge

This part of the Tennessee River is very industrial.   A huge TVA powerplant is on the left asending bank.  On the right asending bank is Decatur, famous as the place that makes Meow Mix cat food--at least that's what the sign said ;-)

Wheeler Lake, what they call this part of the Tennessee River, is the widest water we've seen since leaving Mobile Bay.  The south winds were blowing a steady 20 mph obliquely across the river.  I was pleased to see that even with three miles of fetch, the waves weren't much bigger than 1'. 

There were no locks on today's route so the only thing that could slow us down was a RR lift bridge.  Sure enough, there was a 30 minute delay but we're not complaining.

The Narrow Indian Creek Anchorage

Currently in a snug Indian Creek anchorage, off MM321 on the Tennessee River, with both bow and stern anchors set.  It's narrow but pretty in here.  We made 44 miles today and now have 1843 miles under the keel.  DBH

Day 151: Captain Ron, MD

  We just anchored off the docks at Joe Wheeler State Park when we heard, "Nellie D., Nellie D., this is Annie on channel one six."  So began our serendipitous and most enjoyable encounter with Ron Beberniss. 

Ron and I Ford a Creek in his Jeep

  It was a few days earlier in Florence, AL, that we first heard about Ron, Annie--the 52' boat he built, Annie's calliope, and Ron's stream whistle collection.  This, I remember thinking at the time, is an interesting guy.

Annie's Home

We invited Ron to breakfast.  He invited us to use the empty slip next to him.  Bicki's breakfasts are good, but a free covered slip?  I think we got the better deal :-)

Nellie Next to Annie

After the pro forma, three minute tour of Nellie, Ron showed us through Annie.  In a word, Wow!  Annie took 15 years to build.  Given her high level of finish I'm surprised it didn't take longer.  Annie's all-teak joinery is furniture grade: raised panels, insert doors, custom fiddle rails, winding stairs and everywhere the wood is curved.  It's unusual to see someone so good at so many things.  Did I mention that Ron built Annie while holding down a full time job as an emergency room physician?

Riverboat Annie

Annie's done the 2500 mile round trip to Pittsburgh twice and will be doing it again this summer.

Star, Ron's Favorite of His Ten Miniature Donkeys

Ron collected over 1000 stream whistles.  Nellie's two whistles don't work very well.  Oh, did I have some questions for him!

Walls Full of Beautiful Steam Whistles

On Annie's cabin top is a calliope, think pipe organ.  At sunset we took Annie out on the Tennessee River and were serenaded with calliope music that Ron had arranged. 

Annie's 5 Octave, 61 Whistle Calliope

When Mozart was my age he'd been dead for 25 years.  I get the same sort of wonder when contemplating all that Ron has done. 

It was only 300 yards from our anchorage into the slip but that ups our total to 1800 miles.  In a 60', covered slip at Joe Wheeler State Park.  DBH

Day 150: "You're number three."

The Wilson Lock

There's a traffic jam as we approach the Wilson Lock's tail.  Just exiting is a tug with fifteen barges.  Queued to enter is a tug with four barges. 

A Tug Plus 15 barges is Really, Really Big!

At the lock's head is yet another tug.  It's taking an hour to cycle the lock so we know it's going to be a long wait. 

Wall of Shame

After telling us that we're number three in line, the lock master gives us permission to tie to the wall.  It's better than having to anchor but we still think of it as the wall of shame ;-)

Inside the 94 Foot Wilson Lock

Three hours later we get the green light and single horn toot signifying that we're cleared to enter the lock.  At 94 feet, Wilson Lock's lift is the largest east of the Mississippi and the third largest in the US. 

Bicki on Wheeler's Wall of Shame

Only 14 miles past Wilson Lock we run into another roadblock, Wheeler Lock.  Here too there's a backup.  By some miracle Nellie's moved to the top of the queue and we only wait 55 minutes on the wall of shame. 

It took eight hours to go 20 miles today.  Ouch, that averages to 2-1/2 miles/hour!  The good news is we're now relaxing in a great anchorage in Wheeler State Park, Alabama.  Our total for the trip is now 1799 miles.  DBH